Liechtenstein Sucks

(#2 of two blog entries today)

When I was a kid I loved to look at maps – any kind of maps. I remember looking at Europe and seeing little Luxembourg next to Belgium. Usually every country would have it’s own color on the map and Luxembourg’s color would barely register. We enjoyed our brief stop there last week. Then there was Liechtenstein. It didn’t even merit a color. It usually didn’t even merit the full spelling of its name, substituting “Liech” or something instead. Now I know why (besides the fact that it’s much smaller even than Luxembourg); because Liechtenstein sucks.

It was a long drive – too long, really for just a day trip. But that wasn’t the biggest problem. The first half of the drive, through the rural Bavarian countryside at the edge of the Alps, was beautiful. As I drove, I struggled to define what it was that made it so pleasant. It wasn’t cute villages, since they were quite ordinary, though pleasant. Maybe it was the low-mountain scenery. Maybe it was the narrow, winding roads. I think it had a lot to do with the small family farms. The thing that made them different is that they did not seem to be worked for the greatest possible profit. Many fields were left fallow or were overgrown with grasses and wildflowers. There were still plenty of trees. A few animals grazed. There was all the typical machinery and buildings of agriculture, but none of the bustle – none of the mile after mile of corn or soybeans I’m used to. It seemed to be subsistence farming, mostly, and very idyllic.

But then we got to the small city of Bergenz, near the confluence of Germany, Austria, Switzerland, and Liechtenstein. From that point on, the road turned into one long commercial/industrial frontage road – for 90 minutes! In the thousands of miles of driving we have done in Europe, these were easily the least attractive, and most aggravating. Even that can’t be blamed on Liechtenstein, though. Once we finally got to the border, things loosened up a little. Within a few minutes we were in the capital city of Vaduz, though it was difficult to tell. The town lacks a decent city center. What the little country lacks most though, is any sense of charm. There is absolutely nothing special about the place – not even the sense that anyone was concerned with creating a façade of specialness. It was like a third-ring suburb that used to be nicer some time ago.

So I don’t want to talk about that anymore. Instead, I want to say a few words about our accommodations here near Füssen; we went online seven months ago to look for cottage rentals and found this place. We emailed the owners (using google translate, since they speak little English) and set up the rental, just as we have several times in past trips. It is very economical, especially when you take advantage of the kitchen and cook.

Consider the alternative; This is not an expensive area. Still, two hotel rooms for a family of five, plus two restaurant meals would easily cost $400 a day, not including activities. Our rental costs $100 a day, and is much more comfortable than adjoining hotel rooms. Meals prepared ourselves with local groceries cost about $35 a day, including snacks. So I am sitting here on our balcony, glancing at Neuschwanstein, while the children are lounging in the living room, waiting for me to make dinner, and we are spending one third of what it would cost to do the same thing the more conventional way. I’m not pointing this out to pat myself on the back for cleverness. I’m pointing it out because too many people don’t even consider trips like this because they think it’s too expensive. It doesn’t have to be. That’s my point. How many places can you go in the USA and eat and sleep well, in a stunning location, for $135/day?..